the next black(2014)
导演: David Dworsky Victor Kohler
编剧: David Dworsky Victor Kohler
主演: Mathew Hymers Suzanne Lee Brittany McCrigler Rick Ridgeway Nancy Tilbury Kyle Wiens
类型: 纪录片
制片国家/地区: 瑞典Sweden
上映日期: 2014-10-30
片长: 47分钟 IMDb: tt3839294 豆瓣评分：0 下载地址：迅雷下载
简介：
- An exploration of the future of clothing, profiling forward-thinking companies who are at the forefront of redefining how and what we wear.
影评：
BIOCHEMISTRY IS TRENDING
Designers, models, and a select few tastemakers have long occupied the seats at fashion’s cool kids table, and no one else could sit with them. As the industry finds itself at a crossroads, however, the only way this gang is going to stay relevant is to expand its circle. Enter the science crowd.
In a true art meets science scenario, designers are teaming up with engineers and biochemists to drive the innovations we’re seeing in the textile game these days. The laboratory is the new atelier, the room where the magic (actually basic chemistry but to a non-science person like me it seems like magic) happens, the place where clothes get made – on every level.
There are a lot of exciting things happening in sustainable fashion these days – love for preloved, swap culture, upcycling (read: grandma’s tablecloth, but make it stylish). These are game changers, for sure, to be embraced and admired – especially from a consumer perspective. It’s imperative that we all treat the things that already live in our closets with the utmost respect and affection.
But looking forward, there’s another question creators are asking themselves: what if we could change the making process entirely? What if, instead of making stuff from dead animals and burnt up fossil fuels, we can make it with biology? What if we could make clothes that don’t end up rotting in landfill, or fast-tracking climate change with emissions from the incinerator?
Spoiler alert – we can. It’s called Biocouture.-
WHAT EXACTLY IS BIOCOUTURE?
You know the Impossible Burger? Biocouture is kind of like that, but for clothes. The idea is to grow our consumables in a lab, rather than rely on the toxic traditional tactics. You may have heard ofMylo – the mushroom leather brainchild of Bolt Threads that’s been picked up by the likes of Stella McCartney,Ganni, Adidas, and Lululemon. More and more, fashion magnates are embracing lab-grown textiles – dubbed biomaterials, and made possible through a combination of material engineering, synthetic biology, and skilled sewing. This past summer Brooklyn based fashion designer Suzanne Lee convened the first ever Biofabricate summit at the Navy Yard, where small and big brands alike convened to see what the laws of nature are bringing to fashion. Highlights included yarn made from squid DNA, algae-based dyes, and of course, huge swatches of bio-assembled (usually fungi) leather.
Without getting into the super technical aspects, here’s the breakdown on biomaterials: they cover the concept of designing garments / products exclusively using plant waste. The process makes use of materialproduced by bacteria in a vat of liquid, that then produces bacterial cellulose – which is then molded into clothing. In other words, it’s a biochemical clothes making process which doesn’t rely on extracting resources that disrupt nature’s food chains and society’s supply chains. Here’s the both super cool and super weird part – the fabrics are made from living microorganisms like bacteria, literally offering your wardrobe a breath of fresh air.
On one hand, the idea that your clothes are alive is a little sci-fi and creepy. On the other, if we can have smart phones and smart cars, why not clothes? Like, wouldn’t it be nice, say when you’re working out – or even better, living under an oppressive, unrelenting heatwave – to have a top that reacts to body heat and sweat, triggering textile flaps to open up and let your skin breathe? By tweaking bacterial strains and combinations, a number of start-ups like kin series and MIT Lab’s Second Skin, have got you (comfortably) covered.
EARLY DAYS
Matt Scullin – scientist, biomaterials trailblazer, and current CEO of mushroom leather lab MycoWorks puts it this way: “the great eras in human history are described by their material, like the Stone Age or the Bronze Age. We are in the early days of the Biomaterials Age”.
Biocouture isn’t mainstream – yet. But the strides being made hint at the next possible evolution, or perhaps, revolution – in alternative materials. In the past year, companies including LVMH, Jimmy Choo, and Nike have signed onto collaborations with some of the labs pioneering the movement. Celebrities like Harry Styles and Justin Bieber have been seen rocking Pangaia tracksuits made possible through the chemical reaction of eucalyptus to seaweed (I’m sure it’s a little more complex than that but you get the idea). The fashion industry is getting an actual new lease on life, and the best is yet to come.
You’ve probably heard us go on about redefining our relationships with what we wear. Though we’re going to have to wait a little longer before our clothes become emotionally available, it’s nonetheless an exciting time to be alive – for all of us.
Suzanne Lee-BY STEPH LAWSON
biocure制作过程: 真菌、酵母构成的活体培养物，浸入滋养液中，促进培养物产生一层纤维素，这层纤维素干燥后就成了可以用于制作服饰的材料。源于菌丝的专有蜂窝结构，极佳的强度、耐用性、手感，让其成为了动物皮革的替代品。
张力在于，时尚本来是短视的，现实的，“只关心接下来的五分钟”，这与生物可降解的衣服是矛盾的，整个社会制度、工业社会的生产方式、人们的生活方式都需要转变。
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The future of clothing
The future of clothing is likely to involve a range of innovative and advanced materials, as well as new technologies that enable personalized and customizable garments.
One trend that is likely to continue is the development of smart clothing, which incorporates sensors and other electronics to monitor and respond to the wearer's body and environment. This could include temperature regulation, hydration monitoring, and even the ability to detect illnesses or injuries.
In addition to smart clothing, there may also be a greater focus on sustainable and environmentally friendly materials. For example, there could be a shift towards biodegradable fabrics or recycled materials that reduce waste and pollution.
3D printing technology may also revolutionize the clothing industry, allowing for customized garments to be produced on demand. This could eliminate the need for traditional manufacturing processes and result in less waste and a more efficient supply chain.
Another possibility is the development of self-cleaning fabrics, which could reduce the need for frequent washing and prolong the lifespan of clothing.
Overall, the future of clothing is likely to involve a combination of advanced materials, smart technology, sustainability, and customization to meet the needs and preferences of individual consumers.